Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
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Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
I have been using this system for over a year with great success. 


Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Sure, I have no idea what it even is?

GoingPostal- Mod

- Location: Int'l Falls, MN
Number of posts: 1239
Age: 26
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
I like to know more about it.

danreefs- Great White

- Location: brainerd
Number of posts: 1450
Age: 39

Patriot54- Lion Fish

- Location: Brainerd Lakes Area
Number of posts: 305
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
I converted three of my 215, 150, 125 gal to this system after 3 years of conventional system with a terible time with hair algae... I converted the systems to it 12 months and the result is out standing.
I am planning to do a 75 gal for my son and try to cycle it in 24 hours... I will report back soon when I get all the materials together.
If anyone got a 75 reef ready for cheap let me know. I am trying to get a 800W light for $325....I am still not sure to go with sump less and no skimmer...I am planning to go as cheap as possible. I have not found the high pressure 2000 gal pump yet, but will soon... I see some that are $300 plus... I planning some thing cheaper with efficient wattage. I have an old pump with fry motor but still under warranty and I might able to get it replace for free.
I will post the method basic principal and spec soon.
I am planning to do a 75 gal for my son and try to cycle it in 24 hours... I will report back soon when I get all the materials together.
If anyone got a 75 reef ready for cheap let me know. I am trying to get a 800W light for $325....I am still not sure to go with sump less and no skimmer...I am planning to go as cheap as possible. I have not found the high pressure 2000 gal pump yet, but will soon... I see some that are $300 plus... I planning some thing cheaper with efficient wattage. I have an old pump with fry motor but still under warranty and I might able to get it replace for free.
I will post the method basic principal and spec soon.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Here some info on methods.
One product in specific that he has developed is a natural occurring bacterial compound, Right Now Bacteria (RN), that increases the output of sewage plants by an astounding factor. In conjunction, Snake has developed a specific carbon, Tri-Base Pelletized Carbon (TBPC), that assists the RN to more efficiently convert Nitrates into Nitrogen gas.
The major qualities of RN are to rapidly convert ammonia (NH3+, NH4 OH, & NH4+) into nitrites (NO2) then into nitrates (NO3), in less than 24 hours, then vent the nitrates in the form of nitrogen gas into the atmosphere. This is all accomplished in a ONE TIME TREATMENT! RN totally works AEROBICALLY (living by oxygen) and is a scientific breakthrough. Besides these merits RNBacteria will also reduce phosphates (PO4) and sludge, consume hair-micro algaes and oil, is bio resistance to copper and eight heavy metals, safe for all fish and invertebrates, and is a non-pathogenic natural occurring organism.
The TBPC is a fantastic biological filter medium, thousands of times more efficient that bio-balls by volume, for any aquatic system. TBPC will support a greater population of bacteria than silica or plastic. For every cubic foot (12 X 12 X 12) of bio-balls there are 100 square feet of surface area. Granted, some bio-balls now contain 200 square feet of surface. Silica Sand has a surface area of 390 m2/gram. TBPC has 3 different types of carbon contained in one pellet and has a surface of 1150 m2/gram. This carbon has the greatest surface area/platform for bacteria than any material on the market. As a filter media and TOC, as long as it is not abused, the TBPC should last about five years. This is NOT the same as the adsorbing time factor, so please do not confuse the two.
RN and TBPC were designed to work in conjunction with each other. You can use the RN in any aquarium without the TBPC with good results for Nitrate control. However, the two working in conjunction together will result in a much stronger filtration system. The TBPC acts as a highly efficient biological media base for the RN Bacteria to do it's job for maximum results.
TBPC can be added to any type of filtration system, i.e. wet/dry trickle filters, sumps and carbon tubes. However, after much testing is is found that optimal results occur when a pressure vessel (carbon tube) is used.
One such pressure vessel was created by Dave Reindeau when he built his DIY Carbon Filtration Tubes after purchasing Hiatt's TBPC and RN. Dave Riendeau is, without a doubt, a very brilliant man. In my mind, he is the next Einstein lost in the Hinterlands of northern British Columbia. Months ago Dave and I briefly discussed the concept of using TBPC and RN in a "closed filtration system". Dave, the genius that he is, can picture in his mind a concept and a solution to a problem, make a few scribbles on a piece of paper, and wonder why no one else can understand it. The rest of us have to try to decipher Dave's "Theory of Relativity" and make some sense of it. Take a look at Dave's DIY Carbon Filtration Tubes graphics. For details of how to build this carbon tube system read my DIY Carbon Tube Filtration System (Revised Version) article. If you are not a do-it-yourselfer, Hiatt Distributors Limited does make pre-made carbon tubes
One product in specific that he has developed is a natural occurring bacterial compound, Right Now Bacteria (RN), that increases the output of sewage plants by an astounding factor. In conjunction, Snake has developed a specific carbon, Tri-Base Pelletized Carbon (TBPC), that assists the RN to more efficiently convert Nitrates into Nitrogen gas.
The major qualities of RN are to rapidly convert ammonia (NH3+, NH4 OH, & NH4+) into nitrites (NO2) then into nitrates (NO3), in less than 24 hours, then vent the nitrates in the form of nitrogen gas into the atmosphere. This is all accomplished in a ONE TIME TREATMENT! RN totally works AEROBICALLY (living by oxygen) and is a scientific breakthrough. Besides these merits RNBacteria will also reduce phosphates (PO4) and sludge, consume hair-micro algaes and oil, is bio resistance to copper and eight heavy metals, safe for all fish and invertebrates, and is a non-pathogenic natural occurring organism.
The TBPC is a fantastic biological filter medium, thousands of times more efficient that bio-balls by volume, for any aquatic system. TBPC will support a greater population of bacteria than silica or plastic. For every cubic foot (12 X 12 X 12) of bio-balls there are 100 square feet of surface area. Granted, some bio-balls now contain 200 square feet of surface. Silica Sand has a surface area of 390 m2/gram. TBPC has 3 different types of carbon contained in one pellet and has a surface of 1150 m2/gram. This carbon has the greatest surface area/platform for bacteria than any material on the market. As a filter media and TOC, as long as it is not abused, the TBPC should last about five years. This is NOT the same as the adsorbing time factor, so please do not confuse the two.
RN and TBPC were designed to work in conjunction with each other. You can use the RN in any aquarium without the TBPC with good results for Nitrate control. However, the two working in conjunction together will result in a much stronger filtration system. The TBPC acts as a highly efficient biological media base for the RN Bacteria to do it's job for maximum results.
TBPC can be added to any type of filtration system, i.e. wet/dry trickle filters, sumps and carbon tubes. However, after much testing is is found that optimal results occur when a pressure vessel (carbon tube) is used.
One such pressure vessel was created by Dave Reindeau when he built his DIY Carbon Filtration Tubes after purchasing Hiatt's TBPC and RN. Dave Riendeau is, without a doubt, a very brilliant man. In my mind, he is the next Einstein lost in the Hinterlands of northern British Columbia. Months ago Dave and I briefly discussed the concept of using TBPC and RN in a "closed filtration system". Dave, the genius that he is, can picture in his mind a concept and a solution to a problem, make a few scribbles on a piece of paper, and wonder why no one else can understand it. The rest of us have to try to decipher Dave's "Theory of Relativity" and make some sense of it. Take a look at Dave's DIY Carbon Filtration Tubes graphics. For details of how to build this carbon tube system read my DIY Carbon Tube Filtration System (Revised Version) article. If you are not a do-it-yourselfer, Hiatt Distributors Limited does make pre-made carbon tubes

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Here is some more information:
Aerobic Nitrate Reduction & Starting A New Tank
You must use Right Now! Bacteria and Tri Base Carbon for the 24 hour cycle and the conversion of nitrates (NO3) into Nitrogen gas (N2) to occur. Bio balls contain 100 sq.ft. for every cubic foot of plastic media, while silica sand has a surface area of 156 sq. meters per gram.
Tri Base carbon has three different types of carbon contained in the same pellet, for a total surface area of 1,050 sq. meters per gram.
Tri Base has a greater available surface for bacteria than any other media on the market. In addition, Tri Base contains available carbon which is necessary for the bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle. The carbon is used as a permanent bed for the nitrification bacteria and will support a far greater population than bio balls, silica sand or others.
If kept clean by prefiltering water the carbon will not clog with fines and will last for five years before needing to be replaced. With Right Now! Bacteria and Tri Base Carbon you will see a significant reduction in cycle time. The amount of carbon necessary for this reaction to occur can be calculated with a simple formula. Multiply 0.1667 pounds of Tri Base carbon with the total gallons of water to find out how many pounds are required as a minimum. So a 50 gallon (200 liter) aquarium would require about eight and a half pounds of the carbon.
Starting A New Aquarium
Remove bio balls or other media from your wet dry chamber, and replace it with Tri Base Carbon according to the formula. Add Right Now! Bacteria five minutes before you release your fish into the tank.
After you have acclimated a light load of fish, release them into the aquarium. Make sure to turn off UV and protein skimmer for 24 hours. Do not put Metal Gone in the tank at this time. A good pre-filter (10 microns) will help prolong the life of the carbon. Add Metal Gone after two weeks in another part of your filter. The tank will cloud in the first 24 hours because of the bran flake used as a carrier for the bacteria. This will not harm your fish.
Aerobic Nitrate Reduction & Starting A New Tank
You must use Right Now! Bacteria and Tri Base Carbon for the 24 hour cycle and the conversion of nitrates (NO3) into Nitrogen gas (N2) to occur. Bio balls contain 100 sq.ft. for every cubic foot of plastic media, while silica sand has a surface area of 156 sq. meters per gram.
Tri Base carbon has three different types of carbon contained in the same pellet, for a total surface area of 1,050 sq. meters per gram.
Tri Base has a greater available surface for bacteria than any other media on the market. In addition, Tri Base contains available carbon which is necessary for the bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle. The carbon is used as a permanent bed for the nitrification bacteria and will support a far greater population than bio balls, silica sand or others.
If kept clean by prefiltering water the carbon will not clog with fines and will last for five years before needing to be replaced. With Right Now! Bacteria and Tri Base Carbon you will see a significant reduction in cycle time. The amount of carbon necessary for this reaction to occur can be calculated with a simple formula. Multiply 0.1667 pounds of Tri Base carbon with the total gallons of water to find out how many pounds are required as a minimum. So a 50 gallon (200 liter) aquarium would require about eight and a half pounds of the carbon.
Starting A New Aquarium
Remove bio balls or other media from your wet dry chamber, and replace it with Tri Base Carbon according to the formula. Add Right Now! Bacteria five minutes before you release your fish into the tank.
After you have acclimated a light load of fish, release them into the aquarium. Make sure to turn off UV and protein skimmer for 24 hours. Do not put Metal Gone in the tank at this time. A good pre-filter (10 microns) will help prolong the life of the carbon. Add Metal Gone after two weeks in another part of your filter. The tank will cloud in the first 24 hours because of the bran flake used as a carrier for the bacteria. This will not harm your fish.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
I watched the 5 part you tube video's on this. It does make sense. I tend to be cynical with first blush. My son in law says I am open minded, but not to the point my brains fall out.
Bottom line: for a 50 gal tank it requires 8.5 pounds of the TBPC (algae kryptonite) So how much in dollars per pound is this amazing stuff?
Bottom line: for a 50 gal tank it requires 8.5 pounds of the TBPC (algae kryptonite) So how much in dollars per pound is this amazing stuff?

Nannook- Lion Fish

- Location: Duluth, Minnesota
Number of posts: 309
Age: 53
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Your looking at $60 for ten pound of carbon and RN Bacteria. Make sure you have the pump for it. I already send you my carbon tube design.
You just add 8.5 lb of carbon and bacteria and run it for a year. Take the carbon tube out and clean the carbon with the garden hose and put about 1lb of new carbon in and maybe another $5 more of RN bacteria. The your system is good to go again. After 4 or 5 years of it just spend another $60 of new carbon and bacteria.
The biggest up front cost for me is the PUMP and a small increase in electrict cost. I off set the cost by reduce water change to one time 20% water change every two months.
Here is where I get my stuff... http://www.memory-doctor.com/Aqua/tribase.html
Just get the carbon and the bacteria and nothing else. Not all the product perform as advertise. My self and other have not review all their product yet.
You just add 8.5 lb of carbon and bacteria and run it for a year. Take the carbon tube out and clean the carbon with the garden hose and put about 1lb of new carbon in and maybe another $5 more of RN bacteria. The your system is good to go again. After 4 or 5 years of it just spend another $60 of new carbon and bacteria.
The biggest up front cost for me is the PUMP and a small increase in electrict cost. I off set the cost by reduce water change to one time 20% water change every two months.
Here is where I get my stuff... http://www.memory-doctor.com/Aqua/tribase.html
Just get the carbon and the bacteria and nothing else. Not all the product perform as advertise. My self and other have not review all their product yet.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Here is what I am planning for the 75 gal... No sump, Pre-machanical canister filter + Hiatt Carbon tube
I am thinking of no skimmer either.
used stand and tank maybe $150
Canister Prefilter $175
Hiatt stuff $ 100
Pump +2000gal/h $ 300
RO/DI filter $150
Plumbing $50
Rocks $0
Sand $0
Fish & Coral $300
Salt $ 50
Lighting (Halide & PC combo) $320 www.shop.aquatrader.com
Light Controls X 3 $30
Total $1645
That is the estimated cost. I am going to stay below that at all cost. As you can see the Hiatt filer portion of the total cost if tiny but add the Pump and the pre-machanical filter in. It is still less than the conventional system.
I am thinking of no skimmer either.
used stand and tank maybe $150
Canister Prefilter $175
Hiatt stuff $ 100
Pump +2000gal/h $ 300
RO/DI filter $150
Plumbing $50
Rocks $0
Sand $0
Fish & Coral $300
Salt $ 50
Lighting (Halide & PC combo) $320 www.shop.aquatrader.com
Light Controls X 3 $30
Total $1645
That is the estimated cost. I am going to stay below that at all cost. As you can see the Hiatt filer portion of the total cost if tiny but add the Pump and the pre-machanical filter in. It is still less than the conventional system.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
This might be interesting. If I got this right the return to tank must be above water line. Isn't that noisy/splashy? Could you just run it into the sump and use an airstone for extra O2 and use regular return?

obsessed- Tang

- Location: Sebeka
Number of posts: 177
Age: 44
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
If you already got over flow box, and skimmer and sump you might not need it. I did my other tanks and I had the return point lose to the surface and not on top. Also If you got the sump the you should have the return in your sump and avoid the splash in your main tank. You just need another pump to circulate your main tank with the sump.
I just found the 75 gal tank with drain whole already drill... I can either make an over flow or make a small hangon splash box for the return where I can put foam on it to keep it from making too much noise. The reason they want it to be on top is the bacteria produce large amount of CO2 which will need to be discipate via water surface exchange with O2... As an option you can add Calcite,oragonite, or coral gravel in the path of the return to discipate the CO2 and the added bonus of calcium and mag added to your tank. I did this to one of my tank and it help but does not generate enough cal or mag so dosing is still require, but at a smaller amount. To add more media infront of the flow path will need more power from your pump... I am not sure it woth the cost of extra pumps and power just to reduce the amount of alk dosing.
By the way don't buy their so call PH rock.... It is just calcite gravel (white marble gravel) you can get that at your local garden store in 10lb bags for really really cheap.
I just found the 75 gal tank with drain whole already drill... I can either make an over flow or make a small hangon splash box for the return where I can put foam on it to keep it from making too much noise. The reason they want it to be on top is the bacteria produce large amount of CO2 which will need to be discipate via water surface exchange with O2... As an option you can add Calcite,oragonite, or coral gravel in the path of the return to discipate the CO2 and the added bonus of calcium and mag added to your tank. I did this to one of my tank and it help but does not generate enough cal or mag so dosing is still require, but at a smaller amount. To add more media infront of the flow path will need more power from your pump... I am not sure it woth the cost of extra pumps and power just to reduce the amount of alk dosing.
By the way don't buy their so call PH rock.... It is just calcite gravel (white marble gravel) you can get that at your local garden store in 10lb bags for really really cheap.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Shopping update...
1) Got the 75 Gal and stand for $100 + $20 gas to pick it up
2) Got the full set of all size hole drills for $65 (Anyone need to borrow just let me know)
3) Got the Hayward Swiming Pool filter for $30 and now need to buy a $60 poliester filter for it.
4) Still shopping for light and Pump
5) constructing a new Carbon Tube/Canister Filter with lot of spare parts need to buy one item is the gridded drains 5 dollars parts.
budget is good.
1) Got the 75 Gal and stand for $100 + $20 gas to pick it up
2) Got the full set of all size hole drills for $65 (Anyone need to borrow just let me know)
3) Got the Hayward Swiming Pool filter for $30 and now need to buy a $60 poliester filter for it.
4) Still shopping for light and Pump
5) constructing a new Carbon Tube/Canister Filter with lot of spare parts need to buy one item is the gridded drains 5 dollars parts.
budget is good.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Captain Greg wrote:Shopping update...
1) Got the 75 Gal and stand for $100 + $20 gas to pick it up
2) Got the full set of all size hole drills for $65 (Anyone need to borrow just let me know)
3) Got the Hayward Swiming Pool filter for $30 and now need to buy a $60 poliester filter for it.
4) Still shopping for light and Pump
5) constructing a new Carbon Tube/Canister Filter with lot of spare parts need to buy one item is the gridded drains 5 dollars parts.
budget is good.
WHAT theres a budget in reefing? Why did no one tell me 3k ago.

danreefs- Great White

- Location: brainerd
Number of posts: 1450
Age: 39
Re: Does anyone want to learn about the Hiatt system?
Well, afew years ago one of the tank built almost busted me and almost a devorce. I got wiser and keep it in budget or else she cut the funding.

Captain Greg- Clownfish

- Location: Coon Rapids, MN
Number of posts: 94
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